The buzz: The Umbria-headquartered Urbani Tartufi boasts of being the world’s number-one truffle dealer. Now, the brand (which also runs stores and delicatessens from New York to the Netherlands) has opened this fine-dining restaurant atop Bangkok’s Sathorn Square building.
The vibe: Head up to the 39th floor (which it shares with Koi Japanese restaurant and club) and you’ll encounter an opulent blend of shining black marble and dark woods accented in golds and greens. A fresh seafood display and a bowl brimming with one-million baht’s worth of truffles crown the bar, while the dining room’s plush Italian style shouts business-deal lunches and old-school romance. Executive chef Gonzalo Ruiz has moved over from Lebua, and sends out meticulously-presented dishes from a semi-open kitchen.
The food: Two set dinner menus (B3,900 for five-courses/B5,500 for seven-courses) burst with truffles from almost two-thirds of their dishes. The agnolotti al tartufo provides the most outstanding example of how delicious this delicacy really can be—fresh homemade pasta parcels, filled with a mouth-wateringly rich truffled wagyu beef ragout, topped off with creamy bearnaise sauce. Next in line, the pan-roasted sea bass’s crisp skin is complemented by almond-encrusted sweet pumpkin. Be sure to save space for the velvety mango and truffle mousse—proof that truffles are not just for savory courses. In the unlikely event that you’re still hungry, dip into a bag of their locally-produced truffle durian chips.
The drinks: Urbani makes its own truffle-infused Grey Goose vodka—sweet, earthy and complex. From their 200+ wines, a sparkling glass of Australian Chandon Brut (B290) makes the perfect start to the meal, followed by the white or red Saint-Esprit 2015 Côtes-du-Rhône (B300/320 per glass or B1700/1800 per bottle). A cocktail menu is promised soon.
Why we’d go back: Urbani represents serious fine dining at its best—not to mention that truffles are strangely addictive. We’re keen to try out their newly-launched and very affordable set lunch menu, too (B590/790). Angela Symons